Work space

There is no best-size space for woodworking – there is only a space that works best for you at a given time. This can be a base­ment or spare room in your home, all or part of a garage, a garden shed, shared space in someone else’s shop, or common space in a woodworking co-op or maker space.

Whatever size space you have, you’ll likely end up making com­promises in the type and scale of projects you undertake and the size, type and variety of machines and power tools you use. Over time your interests and skills will likely evolve, necessitating further changes in the way you use your space. Adaptation and flexibil­ity are bywords when it comes to getting the most from your small shop.

In any small shop usable floor space is the most important com­modity. One of the easiest ways to conserve this resource is by going vertical with storage. Get as much as you can off the floor and onto walls. A second way to conserve space is to opt for bench­top and jobsite machinery. These include jointers, planers, mitre saws, table saws, drill press and bandsaws. In lieu of a large router table, consider a small model like the Veritas Table for Compact Routers (LeeValley.com) that uses a cordless compact router with a 1/4″ collet. I replaced my vacuum pump and veneer table with a Roarockit Thin Air Press (Roarockit.ca) It’s an inexpensive manual vacuum sys­tem that consists of a vinyl vacuum bag (available in various sizes from 10.5″ × 40″ to 40″ × 80″) equipped with a one-way valve and seal, and a low-volume high-pressure hand pump. I veneer right on top my workbench. Using the press is super easy and it can be reused numerous times. In lieu of a drill press, I use a Woodpeckers AutoAngle drill guide (Woodpeck.com) and a cordless drill/driver to bore precise straight or angled holes. I can use bits with 1/2″ shanks and up to about 3″ diameter.

Noise management

Noise can be a real problem if you work out of a living space that shares walls with neighbours or if your garage is close to some­one’s home. Start off by talking to your neighbours with a view to identifying the best times of the day for you to use your machinery. When purchasing new machines or power tools, opt for those with the lowest decibel rating.

There are also a variety of things you can do to control sound at the source. Replace any V-belts on your drill press, jointer, or lathe or table saw with segmented link belts. They eliminate vibra­tion and transmit more power. Place machines and work benches on sound-absorbing tiles. You can also attach these tiles to walls or ceilings that are shared with other living spaces. Retrofit rolling tool stands and cabinets with rubber-wheeled casters. These do a better job of deadening sound than plastic casters. When bolting machines to stands use rubber grommets on the plate holes and use rubber vibration isolation blocks between the tool and mobile base or tool cart.

It may seem obvious, but close doors and windows when you’re using machines or power tools that make a lot of noise. Also, if your neighbours are out relaxing in their yard on a pleasant sum­mer day, or possibly having a family reunion, that might be a good time for you to be extra careful with noise.

Dust control

Ventilation and dust control can be quite a challenge in a small space. It’s the fine dust particles that linger in the air for a while before settling that pose the greatest health hazard. A dust mask or respirator will protect you while you’re working. An air filter is also worth considering.
You can significantly reduce fine dust in the shop by using hand planes and card scrapers rather than sanding. The extra thick Blue Spruce (BlueSpruceToolWorks.com) card scrapers are easier to use and maintain than typical thin scrapers. While it takes some prac­tice to get the knack of using a scraper it’s well worth the effort.

When you do sand, it’s best to trap dust at the source. One way to do this is to connect all power tools to a dust extractor. Look for one that has a low decibel level, like the 67dB Fein Turbo I (Fein.ca) or the 72dB Festool CT 15 (FestoolCanada.com). If most of the work you do is at the workbench, then a small por­table benchtop dust extractor like the Oneida BenchTop DC Personal Dust Collector (oneida-air.com) might be the answer.

A stationary cyclonic dust collector is the usual choice for collect­ing dust from shop machinery. But a dust collector generally takes up a fair amount of floor space and can be quite noisy. You’ll also need to accommodate at least one 4″ or 6″ diameter dust hose.

A viable alternative, especially if you’re using a small bench­top jointer, planer or compact jobsite table saw, is to use a dust extractor. You can virtually eliminate clogging (and replacing) the extractor filter and significantly reduce suction loss by connect­ing the extractor to a small portable cyclone like the Oneida Dust Deputy. (oneida-air.com)

Bear in mind that small dust collectors and dust extractors can consume 10 or more amps of power to operate. Considering that a benchtop planer or jointer can use 10 to 15 amps of power you may need two separate electrical outlets to safely run the collector and planer or jointer simultaneously.

Workbench

I used to have a large traditional workbench, along with an assembly table and fairly large router table. I now work on a Festool MFT/3 that serves as both a workbench and an assem­bly table. It’s easy to move around the shop, and in a pinch I can fold it up when I need more floor space. You can make your own bench or purchase a commercial unit. For more information, read “Workholding Devices for Multi-Functional Tables” in this issue.

Lumber

Storing and milling lumber can be problematic. I typically pur­chase only the lumber I need for the project I’m currently working on. My local lumberyard will cut sheet goods down to rough sizes for a small fee. Many hardware stores will do the same, though I’ve found their selection of sheet goods is hit and miss. For small projects I purchase rough lumber and mill it in the underground parking area of our condo building. For large projects I have the lumber thickness planed and jointed at my lumberyard.

It can be a real bummer when you find some gorgeous lum­ber that would make the perfect project down the road but have nowhere to store it. A solution that has worked well for me is to reach out to family and friends who have unused storage space in garages, basements or garden sheds. Another option is to rent a self-storage locker to store your lumber. Maker groups, woodwork­ing co-ops and woodworking clubs are also good options to pursue for processing your stock. Occasionally, I need large panels thick­ness sanded. A local cabinet shop does this for a reasonable fee.

Construction and assembly

To make assembly easier, consider breaking large projects into small units when feasible. For tall cabinets, dressers, cupboards or book­shelves construct them in two sections (one atop the other). This makes it easier to finish, store and transport the finished project, which can then be assembled on site. For cabinets, vanities and the like, Ready-to-Assemble (also called Knock-Down) hardware – connecting bolts and nuts or Confirmit screws – are quick and easy to use.

Clamps are essential for woodworking. The type and number you need will depend on the kind of work you do, but you don’t have to subscribe to the adage that you can never have enough clamps. Some traditional joinery techniques, including draw-board mor­tise and tenon joints, spring joints, and wedge joints, don’t require the use of clamps. You can also use pocket-hole joinery when the joints are going to be hidden. On small projects wedges can be used to clamp stock together. Cauls are also indispensable as they spread clamping pressure out so you can use fewer clamps on a glue-up.

Another approach to dealing with lack of clamps is to make your own. They’re fun and easy to make. Depending on the style you build, they aren’t necessarily as strong as a well-made metal clamp, but you often don’t need a lot of strength to bring a joint together or hold down a workpiece.

Tools

I’ve never met a woodworker who didn’t love tools. Deciding on which tools I “needed” to keep versus those I “wanted” to keep (though rarely or never used) was difficult when I downsized to a smaller workshop and remains an on-going matter. I have found once a tool is out of the shop it soon becomes “out of mind.” Cutting back on powered hand tools wasn’t really an option. While I do admire woodworkers who have gone completely over to hand tools, I’ve retained a bevy of benchtop machines: jointer, planer, table saw and lathe, along with a small bandsaw. All are on casters, which makes it easier to move them around when I need assembly or finishing space. If you have the floor space, a combo machine (table saw, jointer, planer) is worth considering.

Cordless tools now offer comparable power to corded tools and you don’t have to be concerned about tripping over power and extension cords. Due to the interchangeable batteries and chargers, it’s usually better to pick one tool brand and stick with it.

Finishing

Hardwax oil is probably the best friend for hobbyist woodwork­ers. You don’t need any special equipment to apply it, and most have very low VOC (volatile organic compound) levels or are VOC-free. It’s a simple wipe-on finish that dries in less than a day and provides a durable, moisture-resistant, easy-to-maintain finish. The two most prominent brands are OSMO (Osmo.ca) and Rubio Monocoat. (RubioMonocoatcanada.com).