Installing a drop-in kitchen sink
Top mount stainless-steel sinks (also called drop-in, over mount or self-rimming) are the most common type of sink, particularly when matched with laminate countertops. They’re super durable, and unless you drop a heavy object into the sink, they’ll likely last for decades. What’s more likely to happen are cosmetic issues – they’re prone to scratching and tarnishing – and over time your sink can look dull and drab. If the scratches aren’t too severe you can try a stainless-steel scratch repair kit. But if you’re going to be doing any kind of upgrade in the kitchen, such as installing a new faucet, countertop or backsplash, or replacing major appliances, then it’s probably time to replace the sink.
The strainer assembly consists of a basket, strainer, gaskets, pressure cup and tailpiece.
Order of Operations
The strainer and Styrofoam gasket go inside the sink. The rubber gasket, pressure cup and tailpiece go on the bottom of the sink.
There will be one hot and one cold shutoff valve, and possibly one valve for the dishwasher. Both hot- and cold-water supply valves will need to be turned off before turning on the taps to empty any remaining water.
Start Removing Parts
Disconnect the tailpieces from the drainpipes.
Mounting Nut Removal
A mounting nut secured the faucet to the sink and countertop. It can be removed now.
EZ Torque clips, available on some Kindred products, are fast and easy to install.
Mount From Above
The EZ Torque base (in black) slips into the sink from above.
Simply tighten the set screw to the faucet of the EZ Torque base.
For anyone with a modicum of DIY skills, replacing a top mount sink is straightforward if you choose a replacement sink that is the same size (in both width and depth) as the original. Allow a couple of hours for the job and another hour or so if you’re adding a garburator or water purifier. Before beginning the installation, remove everything from the cabinet below the sink.
While the steps I outline below are typical for most installations, it’s time well spent to review the installation guides that come with your specific sink and faucet.
The obvious first thing to do is have all the materials and tools you need on hand. These include the sink, faucet (unless you plan to reuse the old one), new supply lines (unless the existing ones are new), basin wrench, socket wrench, screwdriver, small bucket and absorbent towels. Many new sinks have a gasket that runs around the lip of the sink to provide a watertight seal, and these typically don’t need silicone or plumber’s putty.
If the sink you purchase doesn’t come with strainer assemblies, you’ll need to purchase them. Mount the strainer assemblies and tailpieces onto the new sink before you start your installation. For a double bowl sink, you’ll need two sets of strainers and tailpipes.
The sink and faucet line that I now use exclusively is from Kindred. Compared to traditional sink mounting clips, Kindred’s EZ Torque clips make it considerably easier and faster to secure the sink to the countertop. These fasteners are installed single-handedly using a ratchet wrench or power drill. The clips are pre-mounted on the sink so they won’t fall off when moving the sink around or when securing the sink to the countertop.
Even more impressive is the EZ Torque base that enables you to mount the faucet to the sink from above the countertop – there’s no crawling under the sink with a basin wrench while someone holds the faucet in place from above the cabinet. All you need is a Phillips screwdriver. The made-in-Canada sinks have a high nickel and chromium content that makes them equally resistant to heat and corrosion. Kindred-Sinkware.com.